Queen Elizabeth I (1558–1603) is one of the most famous queens in world history. She was referred to by many names, such as the Virgin Queen and Gloriana. When we consider the portrayals of her on television and in films, her historical importance, and the numerous stories told about her, she arguably ranks second only to Cleopatra in iconic stature. That’s how historically significant she is. In fact, had she not existed, the history of Sri Lanka might have turned out quite differently. The foundations for British arrival in Sri Lanka were laid during the Elizabethan era, as her reign marked a pivotal point in British exploration.
Queen Elizabeth I is historically significant primarily because of the victories she achieved. In 1588, when Spain—the dominant naval power in Europe at the time—attempted to invade England with its Armada, the English navy successfully defeated them at sea. That victory signaled the beginning of Spain’s decline and laid the foundation for Britain to become the strongest European power in both naval dominance and exploration by the 17th century.
The triumphs Britain saw during her reign weren’t limited to war. Under her leadership, Britain experienced numerous successes in exploration, literature, and economics.
However, this article isn’t just about Elizabeth I’s political or administrative victories. It’s about the charisma, appearance, and fashion that supported her rule. In any monarchy, the ruler’s appearance plays a significant role in statecraft. Even in democratic systems, a leader’s appearance, dress, and the image they present to the public contribute to their success or failure. For example, in Sri Lanka, Ranil Wickremesinghe might lack public popularity partly because of his image, while Mahinda Rajapaksa achieved relative success in that regard.
Elizabeth I’s stature as perhaps the greatest queen in world history was not only due to her political achievements but also because of the image she cultivated. Yet, she made many sacrifices for that image—reportedly spending two to three hours a day dressing.
By the end of her life, the makeup she used had caused her facial muscles to deteriorate. She had lost all her natural hair, leaving only a wig. But in the end, these sacrifices gave her a distinct and powerful appearance. This article focuses on that iconic image and the efforts she made to maintain it.
The Unmarried Queen
Queen Elizabeth I remained unmarried throughout her life. She is said to have rejected numerous marriage proposals, stating that she was “married to the country.” She chose to devote her time and energy entirely to the state, making her the bride of the nation—the Virgin Queen. Since she inherited the throne at a young age, she felt it necessary to project a regal and beautiful image to her subjects. She carefully crafted that iconic image.
Fashion historian Amber Butchart and makeup artist Rebecca Butterworth recently analyzed Elizabeth’s historic appearance. According to Butterworth, there were three main elements to Queen Elizabeth I’s iconic look: her pale, almost ghostly white face, rose-colored cheeks, and thin, deep-red lips.
Elizabeth preferred thinly painted lips, which made her eyes appear larger and more dominant—a tactic to emphasize her commanding presence. Her red hair also played a significant role in her image. Adorned with pearls symbolizing her virginity, her hair was styled high and elaborately, though by her later years, she wore a red wig instead.
Her eyebrows were unaltered but were shaped upward to suggest power. She often used her eyes to assert authority and, as she aged, kept her mouth closed in portraits to hide imperfections.
In addition to her facial appearance, her clothing and jewelry also helped project her royal image. In Elizabethan England, attire symbolized social status for both men and women. Elizabeth used clothing extravagantly to assert her royal identity, reportedly taking over two hours just to dress. She even influenced the fashion of noblewomen, allegedly insisting that they wear less ornate clothing to ensure her appearance stood out.
As a result, Queen Elizabeth I was able to maintain a powerful and captivating image—a crucial aspect of political leadership, especially in a time without cameras. Painters were instructed to highlight her beauty and majesty.
She fully understood that her physical image and appearance reflected her authority. When beauty faded, so did power—so she made every effort to preserve her glow, though it took a toll on her life.
The Disappearing Beauty
Elizabeth became queen in her twenties. Early in her reign, she contracted smallpox, which left scars on her face. She used heavy makeup to conceal these marks—especially a toxic white lead-based foundation known as ceruse, popular among wealthy women of the time. This compound, containing lead and vinegar, is now known to be highly poisonous.
As her skin deteriorated, she applied more and more of this toxic makeup to cover up the growing damage. By the end of her life, she was wearing what some historians describe as a one-inch-thick porcelain-like layer of makeup. The toxic substances didn’t just damage her skin—they also harmed her health.
Her lipstick, made with mercury-based dyes, also caused further reactions. These substances likely led to serious physical effects such as hair loss and memory loss. It’s believed that by the end of her life, she had lost all her hair and wore only a wig.
Her poor diet, rich in sugary delicacies (a luxury only the wealthy could afford at the time), led to blackened teeth. Because of this, she reportedly smiled without showing her teeth.
Exaggeration and Reality
Due to all this, Queen Elizabeth I’s appearance and health were significantly affected toward the end of her life. She died at the age of 69. By that time, her appearance had changed drastically.
Nevertheless, her political legacy remained strong. She carried Britain into the 17th century and laid the groundwork for its global dominance. These successes cannot be overstated. So, even though she focused heavily on her appearance, she was far from a vain or weak ruler. She did it to maintain her power.
However, in later portrayals—especially in modern media—Elizabeth is often depicted in an exaggerated and grotesque manner, with her aged appearance used to undermine her character. While it’s true that her makeup caused physical damage, this portrayal often reflects gender bias.
Even today, powerful women are subjected to demeaning stereotypes. Criticisms based on clothing, rumored relationships, or even alcohol use are often used to question a female leader’s legitimacy—tactics rarely employed against men. This was evident in the 2016 U.S. presidential election with Hillary Clinton, and in Sri Lanka with former President Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga.
Similar tactics were used against Elizabeth I. Some even claimed she was secretly a man. Yet today, her aged appearance is often unfairly highlighted, overshadowing her greatness.
In truth, her image strengthened her authority, rather than weakening it. It was never her downfall—it was part of what made her remarkable.
